H&R 999 Sportsman 22LR Top Break Revolver
H&R 999 Sportsman 22LR Top Break Revolver
Fun Gun Reviews Presents the H&R 999 Sportsman 22LR Top Break Revolver. A great little handgun that is fun to shoot and great for target as well as small game.
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Thanks for watching~ Sootch00
elevation adjustment is on front of muzzle just below sight. it’s very clever in design. an excelent firearm .
I have a H&R 999 in excellent condition except it was having the problem where after a cylinder or two of shooting when I’d break it open the cylinder would pop off the receiver post completely. I ordered the $6 replacement retaining spring from Gun Parts Corp. (Numrich) It is readily apparent that the factory original spring (which looks more robust than the replacement) was very worn down where there was barely any of the "hook" protruding through the cylinder post slot. The replacement spring has an actual hook to it that protrudes out farther. Replacement took 5 minutes. No binding. Operates smooth. Seems like it holds the cylinder on firmly. Will take it out to the range ASAP to give it a shooting test. When the cylinders get gunky from shooting the cases stick a bit which then puts upward pressure on the ejection star/rod. That new hook should keep enough tension to hold it in place. They are such cool revolvers. I paid more for mine than I planned ($400) but it’s metal condition and bluing is perfect, and the 2 piece wood grips are in very good shape. The 999’s double action trigger is pretty heavy, but the single action is crisp. Accurate enough. I also had to replace the hammer spring retainer plate when I first bought it. The original one was some plastic that had become brittle and broke the first time I shot it, but the replacement one from Numrich/Gun Parts Corp is steel and works perfect. A few more tips for 999 (and similar models) owners: the rear sight blades are notorious for their adjustment screws loosening and falling out; Loctite them after getting it to your desired POI. Also – never close the gun action without the cylinder in place. Apparently if you close it without the cylinder it will break the gun. I haven’t tried to prove that. Lastly, if you want the locking action lever to stay tight for a long long time, don’t snap it shut. Lift the locking lever over the two "ears" lugs, close it and put the top lever down. Snapping it over them while shutting the action will eventually wear them down to the point that the action is loose or it won’t lock shut.
The ATF defines a pistol as any handgun that does not contain its ammunition in a revolving cylinder.
*I SEE THE PROBLEM Bro!*
That Club Footed Lever Sitting Behind The Trigger. That is a Hammer Fall Safety.
It Appears The One on That Pistol is Jammed to the Rear. It’s Probably Missing The Little Half inch long Return Spring That Sits in the round Indention Behind It.
If You Pull That Little Lever Forward You’ll Find That it Will Stop The Hammer From Traveling Beyond The Zero Position and Bump Firing The Round Aligned in The Cylinder. The Whole Purpose of That Little Lever is To Stop The Hammer From Striking A Round Unless The Trigger is Actively Being Squeezed, Thus Disengaging The Safety Lever and Allowing The Hammer to Strike The Round Aligned in the Cylinder.
I’ve Owned One of These Beauties Since I Was 10 Years Old, So I Speak From Experience Having Accidentally Bump-Fired a Round Through My Waterbed When I Was 12 LMAO!!
Too bad nobody knows how to make a cleaning video for these. That might help stop folks from ruining these guns when they remove the cylinder and close the breech unawares of the damage they have done.
The latch (rear sight) will eventually get sloppy because the two dogs that it snaps over to lock it will wear. You’ll know it when hot lead starts landing on your shooting hand. I built them up with silver solder and so far so good…..
Dear Sir, I have a pistol very similar at model 999 but I have no information about it, and the one that you show has the inscription on top not on the side. I want to fix it, but I have no diagram of it, could you help me please,could you send me more information about this pistol? I will apreciate your help.
I was happy to pay $450 for mine this year..prices run high here in Nor-Cal 🙂
I’m looking for an additional cylinder for mine for target shooting..
Unholy excrement! Can’t believe you reviewed this gun! I’ve been lookin’ for the right 999 for years now. Awesome review!
I own one and I love it! Mine has a transfer bar style firing pin so it’s safe to carry fully loaded, but I don’t know when they started doing that exactly. One word of caution for people looking to get one: Keep an eye on the rear sight screws! Mine loosened and I almost lost the rear sight blade.
I take mine to the range every time I go. Goal is to wear it out. LOL
A couple information errors in this video review. A blow to the hammer on the 999 will not fire the cartridge lying beneath the hammer, even on the pre-transfer bar model. The trigger must be pulled fully to the rear before the internal mechanism will allow the hammer to move far enough forward for the hammer’s firing pin to strike the rimfire case’s primer. Also loading is meant to be done only when the barrel has bee opened fully to it’s stopping point so that the ejector plate has snapped back flat to the cylinder surface,facilitating easy loading without any danger of tearing skin on a finger or thumb.
The later models had a hammer block safety. No empty chambers. Full nine-shot.
One I was sold for cheap is the full single-piece checkered grip type in very good shape and likely is all original but for 1 small part replaced by a gunsmith. Never fired it thus far…
Would love to see you revisit this gun
I own several H&Rs, Iver Johnsons, and Allen & Hopkins revolvers of various calibers. All of which have steel frames as well as everything else being steel. So the statement about frames not being steel in lower end revolvers of the time period isn’t true. True some were not case hardened or made of softer steel but just the same steel. Misconcepts come from those trying to be experts on everything from a quick Google search. Pot metal frames weren’t really a standard until the 70s about the time these fine firearms were phased out in favor of cheaper manufacturing techniques and materials.
I WANT IT, I WANT IT, I GOTTA HAVE IT!!!!!
I just LOVE that top break style.
I have one H&R 999 .22 LR, Pre 53, in Great Condition.
Very informative, I just got one today, been looking at them for years, retired now and can plink more. Great post and Thanks!
Not too sure about the info on this revolver?
They started making them in 1932.
Very nice gun 😀
I ruined mine by removing the cylinder and closing the breech. I guess you have to go to the school of hard knocks with these revolvers as there is no documentation to warn you of not closing the breech with the cylinder removed. Thanks UNIVERSE!
a cartridge or round in the chamber…. a bullet is part of a cartridge and you know that
I have one just like this one made in early 40s..love it
I had this same gun, it was my favorite. Mine was made in 49.
Among other inaccuracies in this video you keep saying pistol. Its not a pistol its a revolver. Learn your terminology.
These are very similar in design and operation to the early S&W top break revolvers. Today I bought one just like this one, better blueing, $200 otd at a local shop. It’s well made and finished, a shame they don’t get the respect that they deserve. They are easier to reload than the swing out Smiths, much easier than the Colt SAA type revolvers. That was the appeal of the Schofield revolvers, though ammo incompatibility doomed it. The front sight is adjustable for elevation, the rear for windage.
What an extremely well thought out design. So of course no one makes a similar gun today.
H&R revolvers which were built during the early 20th century, when America had begun its shift from a primarily agrarian economy to a more industrialized one, were designed for the practical use of the outdoorsman, farmer and stockman. For such persons, a 22 caliber rifle was and remains today a constant companion for any variety of tasks. One might often be required to destroy pests or wounded stock; punch a hole in lumber or metal; or bring home a brace of rabbits for dinner. However, not everyone cares to tote a rifle around constantly especially when both hands were needed to attend an important job or task. That has always been the value of a handgun in that it was portable and could be kept handy yet out of the way. Still, in the early half of the 20th century, money was VERY tight and hardly any caliber was more practical and low cost as the 22 Long Rifle or similar and a handgun also had to be, like a hammer or other tool, low cost, reliable and durable. Such is the design and construction of the H&R line of revolvers. Thank you for reviewing this simple but effective revolver because not every handgun or firearm must be designed for personal or national defense.
I can’t find what year mine were made. I have two H & R Arms .22 cal. double action breakover revolvers that I inherited from my father. One serial number starts with a "K" and has four digits after. The other starts with a "J" followed by four digits. Both have one piece grips that appear to be wooden. 6" barrels I believe. Both are 9 shot. Not sure what models these are. Wanting to find value but can’t find model number on gun anywhere.
I have an almost mint 1950 999 6" barrel that I got from my Grandfather. It’s a beautiful gun, and although I’ve heard that some have heavy triggers, this one has an excellent, light, predictable pull. I’m warring with myself between shooting it, and keeping it with such little handling or usage.
Another unique feature is if you’re topping off the cylinder you point the gun down and it will eject the empties but the unfired rounds drop back in place. Neat!
$250, I wish, they running $300-500. I love the top break, I own a H&R .22 Special break action, 7 shot. Looking for a H&R Huntsman .22lr Revolver, 9 shot. A step up.
Have my dad’s Model 777 Ultra Sportsman. Single action only. When you break it open, it only comes out far enough to eject spent shells! It will retain unfired shells. Treasure, still shooting 80 years after production date of 1938! Thank you!
I would pick it as a good choice for a beginner, I would have if I could start over
This was the very first firearm I shot well over 30 years ago. I haven’t seen one since.
I have one of these early models (one piece grip) which my dad used to teach me how to shoot so it has tremendous sentimental value. Alas the cylinder very loose and floppy. Would a good pistol smith be able to repair for reasonable money?
If anyone can recommend a good break top smith in northern Indiana I would be grateful. 🙂
Sorry Sir, I made a mistake the one that you show has the inscription on the side not on top
So these were made from 1953 to 1986 but yours was made in "1940’s". Huh?? Sootch needs to do more research on the guns he’s "reviewing" before he releases a video.
I have a 1941 999 I inherited from my grandpa beautiful gun.. I did switch outvthe grip as the original was In beautiful condition so since thwyre once piece grip I purchaaed a cheap polymer black grip…i will say I like the look od the gun with the black grip but want to keep the original grip on original condition.
Now there’s a pistol you don’t want to get the model number upside down
June 2020. Facepalm.
That’s all I am gonna say.
These were made 1953 to 1986, now this one here was made sometime in the 40s. ::THINKTHONK::
These are great little units. My grandpa left me his and it is in near mint condition. Shoots great and is accurate as can be.
I got one with pre-1953 single piece wood grip… not 2 panels. $125 and in excellent shape. He means carry with no SHELL or ROUND or cartridge under the hammer. And he knows it is a revolver… not a semi-auto pistol.
The hammer block safety is visible behind the trigger. Is it broken?
there was no ruger when these came out
What kind of price would be gd for a used one