Savage Mark II .22 lr Trigger Job
Savage Mark II .22 lr Trigger Job
This is a non adjustable Savage .22 that I did a trigger job on. It’s easy and can be done in an hour. It significantly reduces the pull and travel of the original trigger. If you have a good mechanical understanding please fast forward through the explanations to shorten the video.
😀 awesome. Great job then!
Hey bro great video thanks helped me heaps! Could you make a video on the disassembly of the bolt of this rifle, by that I mean totally taking apart the bolt, ive been trying for weeks so i can polish up the bolt internals but i cant figure it out, and theres not a single video on youtube about it.
I didn’t have any of the shims but I drilled out the trigger and replaced the spring and WOW what a difference but I have one question…where can I find a .011 shim for the trigger? Can’t find one anywhere.
No reason to shim at all. I cut half a coil off of the stock spring and lost 1 lbs of trigger pull. I cut a second half of a coil off and I went from the stocl pull of around 7 1/2 lbs to right around 4 lbs of trigger pull. I used a fish scale to gauge it. Trigger is significantly better!!
thanks man work’s great
What rail is that and is it a standard picatinny rail? Where did you get it at?
I’m thinking a small washer polished down using a Dremel tool to .011 would work. I wonder if two .005 washers on either side of the trigger might be more efficient.
My trigger on my mark2 is a lot different (I’m sure its older) so I just did the shim mod and used a .023 shim anf now its like night and day, much much better.grate video helped a lot
The bolt on my new Savage MKII-GXP is quite stiff. I looked & the base of the bolt handle is rubbing against the metal cut out area as the bolt handle comes up it runs against that metal cut out area next to the bolt handle & that rubbing makes it stiff. I understand the bolt needs to be secure when the rifle shoots but this stiffness is going to get to be a pain real fast. Should I take a file & open up that area around the bolt handle shaft??
Have a video on it, browse the guns playlist. It’s an EGW one piece 20MOA mount.
Thank you so much for your work in producing the Trigger Job" video! Good job!
You sure helped me, a 73 year old who bought a cheap new Walmart rifle, and found out the triggering made it work like junk! By the way, my rifle is the Savage 17 hmr, 93R17F model. You saved me from a nasty situation guy! Please keep up the clear instructions on gun stuff, and good luck with your hunting!
Is there a reason why you didn’t just take a half or a full coil off the stock spring thus eliminating the need to drill the hole ? Not sure it needs the 11/1000 shim but the 25/1000 spring may be beneficial. I would have had a longer 25/1000 shim and drilled a hole in the center going over to the other side eliminating the bending concern. That and a polishing job on the sear, trigger and parts you can get at might even produce a better result. This looks like a good idea.. at literally no cost. Kudos to you..
About a year ago I watched this video and swore I was going to do this… 12 months later and it’s still on the " to do " list. BUT.. I still think this mod for this weapon is one of the best on the web.. As noted below some folks put their own spin on this and I probably will too, but I appreciate the creativity of guys doing this type work first..
darn thought the rifle in the video had the same style of trigger in my mossberg 320 but does not. oh well. atleast i was able to get the trigger pull down from 6.5lbs to 3.5lbs with some sanding and messing with the sear. i know one thing i hate how synthetic stocks have that damn seam on them. little things like that drive me nuts and is why i like wood stocks
No it didn’t, not all models come with the accutrigger.
thanks for the video, just bought my savage mark 2 and this is an easy mod to do
Suggestion….where you have the .025 shim, so the "tab" doesn’t bend while tightening the bolt, make the shim like you did the .011 shim (like a washer)…. that way you’ll have 100% contact area and not bend the tab. Good vid though.
i wonder if you could polish the top part of the trigger and use plastic or Teflon shims to get a tighter tol. without added friction
Pretty good job there kid. You are on your way to becoming a good gunsmith if you choose. Or maybe an engineer if you prefer. Let me give you a couple of tips. You can buy springs on the internet or as I have done, as a PC Tech as well as a amateur gun fixer, I save all the springs from old printers when I toss them. Most cheap printers have from 6 to 12 usable springs in them. Along with some good rod material and rubber stuff. I have boxes full of springs near the size you have there. The other tip is to not drill the trigger for a cheap pen spring. A pen spring will likely grow weak after age and potentially collapse on you causing unwanted firing. But you are probably good to go there. Oh you can get a cheap tripod for the camera so you can use both hands.
What was before/after trigger pull, and travel
Thanks, I used a spring from a glock safety plunger and polished the trigger and sear and worked like a charm. Thank you!
Damn, that’s too bad! It makes shooting so easy!
Just done this to my mark tonight it slightly different but this video help me have a lot better understanding of what I was doing thanks!!! My spring was already the same diameter as one out of an ink pen so it fit it the hole perfect. I used a small thin peace of metal I found around the house maybe a hair thicker than yours and it worked perfect. After putting it back together I bumped the stock pretty hard several times and no issues. I swear it’s now got a pound or less trigger I can’t thank you enough.
Good shit man, I hated my 17 HMR same model but a savage93r17 saved me from buying a new one. keep up the good how to video’s saved me a lot of cash for real though. just wanted to let you know. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!
Ok… after a year of not doing it, I finally talked myself into giveing it a go…. a couple of things, first and formost I have no idea how many guys drilled the wider hole straight down like you would normally do… DON’T !! I had to tilt the drill press table 15 degrees to match the angle of the original hole which in turn affects the way it engages the sear. To check yours, just stick a drill the same size as the original hole and look at the corresponding angle. Mine was approx 15 degrees. I should add at this point my Mark II is marked to be an August 2017 manufacture so older guns may or may not be different.. Juat know it could be. I didn’t do the shim for the side to side because mine doesn’t really have that issue. I did however, do the 25/1000 shim and changing the spring. You don’t have to pull out the trigger assembly to do all that, just remove the one bolt, loosen the other and you can tilt the unit and slide the shim where it needs to be. Of course you still have to remove the trigger to get at replacing that small spring and drill the hole to match. I went the ball point spring route experimenting with different lengths and tensions. I found that a dab of vaseline in the spring hole kept it from falling out during reassembly.
Ok….. What was the result ? For a no cost mod this works, but not as well as I’d hoped. Seems the replacement spring doesn’t have as much to do with the trigger pull as you’d think. If you’re expecting a 1 1/2 to 2 lb trigger pull you may be disapointed. It is, however, much better than stock. I learned a bit more about the gun and it’s internals. Maybe next time I’ll take it apart more and polish the sear and mating points. I will say I was surprised that the internals looked as good as they did for an inexpensive weapon.
what is you Scope ??
Did yours not come with an Accutrigger?
You need some gunsmith glue (grease)
I have a savage 93r 17 with the accutrigger and while I think the standard trigger is awesome just the way it is, being the way I am, I can’t leave it alone. I understand that with an accutrigger it’ll be a little different but at least this gave me somewhat of an idea of what can be done. Have you tried polishing any of the contact surfaces? That will really smooth out that trigger and help it feel even lighter without sacrificing the safety of the firearm.
hey man i was adjusting my trigger but i lost my clip part on the bolt that holds the trigger in. i was wondering if u knew if it could run without it and/or do you know when i could buy one thanks plz reply
just did the trigger job on my mk2 and i love it thanks for the video
Great video!!! All needed was a feeler gauge to sacrifice–had everything else. I went with .014" for my shim and still will probably shim mine a bit more. I don’t have a trigger pull gauge, but before you could hang the weight of the bare rifle (5 lbs 5 oz) on the trigger and not fire it–now about 4 lbs with just a bit of creep. A significant improvement for a few dollars and about an hour’s work. Will shoot it a bit and then revisit other springs and shims in hopes of further improvement
Not to nit-pick too much, but I would recommend not dry firing any 22 rim fire. I understand that some companies state that it won’t hurt. On the MK II it is too easy to leave the bolt part way open. The trigger feel is the same, but the bolt closing all the way dampens the firing pin motion. Much easier than buying a snap cap, or trying to fit a fired shell into the chamber.
Thanks for the informative video. The factory trigger is a bit heavy and rough feeling, so hopefully this will help.
Can I do the shim work if I have accutrigger?
Totally not worth it for a 22lr in my opinion.
Good information, but anyone endeavoring to make a channel here, should have invested in camera tripod. The “do it with one hand” comment is getting tiresome on YouTube
Good speaking ability with minimal digression and no “uhhhhs.
polishing the contact points on the trigger and then greasing them will also make a world of difference. I did the same trigger job and once polished everything a .017 washer would let the release as soon as you closed the bolt. Anyways, just trimming the trigger spring and polishing and greasing, I’m down to about a 2 1/2lb trigger. I love it!
Thanks for putting this together. Very easy to follow. I only modded/swapped out the spring so far; and I can already see a major difference. I’ll complete the other parts as free time permits.
I don’t get why a trigger the wobbles side to side effects anyone’s groups.
Excellent video, I just fixed mine a few days back, pretty easy. Wonder why how you could "accutriggered" an "un-accutrigger" savage rifle with one hand but you didn’t duct-tape your cam to a baseball cap. Thanks.
That’s why I did this mod and put it out here to show others! I agree a nice light trigger makes range time fun.
Hi. You have a different safety spring that I do. I have the little coiled wire formed to be circular with the end fitting into a hole. This is a very difficult spring to deal with as it always comes out of the hole. I used a pen spring as well, & greased everything as the manual states AND I had to make sure to loctite the forward screw in as this is where the most pressure was. A common ailment was the screw came out as the whole trig. group dropped down & firing pin did not strike primer. You must have a newer model than I do. JAMES.
just did this mod with .025 feeler gauge on my 93R17. I have not shimmed trigger or replaced or trimmed the spring but already the rifle is much more usable. There is still a bit of creep to be polished out but I am satisfied with the results of the shim. This rifle is extremely accurate and I am excited to test it with "new" trigger. I drop tested it from waste high 2 times without the sear slipping. Doesn’t mean this mod is safe but will work for me.
you really using it for 600+ yards?
couldn’t you just lightly file the sear pin down? Instead of lifting the housing up?
Thanks for the how to. I did this tonight. You made me happy, friend.
I have a mark 1 will this work for it?