Very Important AR-15 Parts
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Some the videos scary. That hang fire👀
Are you located in Texas?
Spend money on the 3 Bs: Barrel, BCG, and Bullet button 😉
Great video, outstanding and important topic.
There are only three main parts that make a gun go bang. The barrel, bolt, and trigger. Spend your money there first.
Buy once, cry once.
<2>
Love your reviews brother. Good no BS info.
RLTW!
I would never bash a man for exercising his god-given 2A rights and trying to be a protector of his community and his family. some people can’t afford Glocks especially these days trying to raise a family and provide. so I will not bash a man if he has a high point. All i care about is the character of that man and how he commits his self to the cause. If you bash a man because he can’t afford a Daniel defense and has a PSA or an Anderson you should be ashamed of yourself. They just trying to work with what they have and there is no problem with that in my opinion. People fall on hard times especially these days . We are Americans and should be supporting those who stand for freedom no matter if they have a Glock or a high point. Got three types of people in this world you got the sheep the wolves and the sheepdog. Which one you going to be cuz 10 times out of 10 I’m going with the sheepdog. Don’t let a wishbone grow where your spine should be ladies and gentlemen. 🇺🇸🦅🗽📜🐍🪖💥 .
What’s wrong with Stag arms
Great video. I do agree with you but you said a double charge. No way can a 223/5.56 case hold a double charge. A compressed charge , yes. But no way for a double charge. Now a pistol case most definitely . I am amazed that whoever had 20 squibs in that barrel and wasn’t able to notice and not get hurt , now that’s wild. Glad no one got hurt.
Very informative video! What caused the catastrophic failure on the Glock at the 51 second mark?
Favorite trigger? Regardless of price.
Great video Thank You
I would say instead of the wedge for receiver slop you could also check out the JP enterprises oversized takedown pins. Worked great in my rifle that had a lot of slop in it. But they are more expensive then the wedge.
This is an excellent video, topic, content👍
I love slapping a 1k upper on an Anderson lower and just hitting it with the rattle can 😂
foam earplug will keep you ARs from moving around
We don’t make fun of the poors for what they own. We make fun of them for the stupid 💩 they say and how they react. Most of them could own a nice AR if they saved their money instead of cheaping out just because they’re impatient. #justasgood #forthepoors
Thank you! Yet another amazing video. You are one of the few experts, who I follow all the time. I know this question will be like “it depends” but let me ask it anyway: What is your perspective between 5.56 and 7.62? And for 7.62 aka .308, what do you think between DI vs piston driven ones?
My build money went to: Ballistic Advantage .223 wylde barrel, American Defense BCG, BCM upper reciever, Machine Tool hand guard, Magpul stock & grip. Saved money where I could: Strike Industries lower parts kit with trigger/hammer, expo arms buffer kit and yes, an Anderson lower.
I say take the time and use the exact parts you want in your build so you end up with what you want in the end totally worth the wait!!!!
Great Information, thank you for sharing. Also, where did you get that splatter paint sling from? Thanks in advance.
Are you saying that bubblegum and paperclips aren’t good fasteners for my budget build? I was really thinking I could save a few bucks…
That highspeed ejecting matter coming out of Glock just over your trigger finger😬
Both my rifles have anderson stripped lowers. The holes are in spec, and really they very little bearing on performance or durability, so I don’t see the point in buying lowers for many hundreds of dollars. Also, in my experience anderson lowers are so snug when paired with aero uppers. Not rattle at all.
👍🏻👍🏻💯💯🔫🔫🇺🇸🇺🇸☕️☕️🛎
Thanks! Great video!
i could not agree with you more. i get so sick of people making fun of ‘econo’ ars. every gun guys should be glad to see people build/guy more guns as it strengthens our 2a right.
Not a big problrm actually. You can find quality parts on sale at discount sellers. May I suggest you consider a DPMS Upper the style without the Forward Assist or dust cover or both. The alloy is very thick and substancial. A clamp style handguard is easiest to build and some have bosses to align them with the upper. Plus they don’t have to be indexted. If you have a handguard that needs indexted you usually have to torque it at least twice to align the rails on the receiver and handguard. And sometimes you will get one without shims included. And I know there is a range of torque for the barrel nut but don’t be tempted to align it with overtorque or undertorque. basucally the insert on the end of the barrel is held rotationally by the pin that indexes it to the receiver and you can shear that pin. Your bcg won’t go in battery and you won’t be able to remove the barrel nut because it will rotate in the upper. And the best tool to use for assembly an upper is the type that insert through the receiver into the insert. The two piece plastic can slip and doesn’t fit the DPMS type upper. The worst is the one that uses the holes for the takedown pins. They can and do distort the holes for the upper introducing slop before you even assemble it. Yes and do use the proper tool and a torque wrench. compensating for the offset on the wrench or crows foot. On the other style handguard most common is the one mounted with 6 set screws. Try to thread them all before tightening any. Finally on the buffer tube screw it in only as far to contact the locating pin as too far and it may not cycle. It is definately too far if the back won’t close. So I would also not allow it to turn when tightening the buffer tube not becsuse it will then keep that pin from moving.
JP enterprises captive buffer spring. Quiets the tang from the buffer spring and with proper weighted used tunes the rifle. Just a personal opinion. I have them and use them. Love them. Or use flat spring or a quality beaded spring. Either cheaper than a JP and quieter than a mil spec spring.
Have you ever tried the Giessele super 42? Thinking about getting it for my DD M4A1 RIII.
I am a complete layman when it comes to this aspect of bolts, but supposedly high pressure testing causes more harm than good when you have a good bolt manufacturing process and unnecessarily reduces bolt life substantially. If I recall correctly, Knight’s Armament doesn’t HP test for this reason. It could be an excuse to save money, but I somehow doubt it in their case.
Lots of people use lube or even grease on buffer springs (to reduce the sproing sound). I used to use automotive grease on my buffer spring years ago to get rid of the sproing and fired probably close to 10,000 rounds without issue. I use Geissele Super 42 springs these days to cure the sproing but I still lightly lube them. I could be mistaken, but I believe most manufacturers recommend that you lightly lube the buffer spring regardless though.
Thanks for the info! Joining yo Patreon in 3, 2, 1….
IMO the LaRue MBT2S is the best trigger for under $100. Or the best I’ve experienced anyway. For a grip I always seem to go back to an Ergo Surfire grip. It’s the CZ75 of AR grips IMO. I used to buy Tango Down grips, but I’ve switched to the Ergo for most of my builds. For the price I think ALG makes pretty good handguards. I prefer them to their triggers anyway.
Great video BTW, but I’m a little surprised that you didn’t mention optics. Also what’s your option about running a drop-in handguard as opposed to free floating? I feel the free floating handguards are cool, and have some advantages, but for the cost I’ve never found a drop-in handguard to be a hindrance. Obviously a free floated handguard gives you more options and real estate.
Might be long one lol..
I used to be super bias when it came to parts and was also kind of a snob . I was a snob because I was bias . Now my mindset has changed over the years . If its built correctly and you use decent quality parts I seriously doubt you’ll have an issue .
My go too parts…..
•Upper Receivers
Colt Stripped / Assembled uppers are my absolute go too for just about any build..
Aero M4E1 , Centurion , BCM , Spikes Tactical , and PSA have Uppers have never let me down. Colt and Aero is what I use the most .
LMT MLC , MLR , Shovelnose and SPECWAR MRP Uppers are the pinnacle IMO..
•M16 BCG / Bolt
When it comes to diffrent finishes on these parts I prefer Phosphate , Chrome or NP3 . I’m really not a fan of Nickel but I’ll make some exceptions for LWRCI N.B. Keyless BCG and LMT Enhanced Nickel . Colt , Centurion , BCM , SOLGW and Aero / BA Phosphate BCG/BOLT are my preferred parts . Smith Enterprise , DD , and Brownells are my go too for Chrome Plated . Sionics , FCD , SOLGW and Triarc are my go too for NP3. Colt , DD Chrome and Sionics are my 3 go too for almost any build..
•Barrels
Centurion Midweight or LW HF Barrels , BA Hanson QPQ , BA 223W 16" Tactical Gov MK12 Mod H , and Criterion Core or Hybrid are my go too barrels .
Colt SOCOM is the barrel I’ve been using the longest but I dont really recommend it these days .
For general purpose 12" – 13.9" is my go too barrel lengths . I only use 16" for my 2Gun / Recce Rigs ..
BA Hanson QPQ and Centurion Midweight HF are probably my favorite 2 Barrels . BA Tactical Gov 416R QPQ is my favorite for being more precise. I also love the Criterion Core but my BA Tac Gov Barrel is literally just as accurate for 100 bucks less..
•Rails
I’m still actually Quad/ 1913 rail fan but MLOK Definitely makes more sense.
Centurion , CMT , and Midwest Industries are my go too rails . Centurion C4 is my all time favorite . I actually own more KAC RAS than anything else because I was cloner for a lot of years . DD probably makes the bomb Proof Quad Rails IMO . There is to many pipe hitting/ bomb proof rails to List..
•Lower Receivers
Colt , BCM , Centurion, CMT , Centurion , LWRCI , LMT , Aero M4E1 , ADM , San Tan Tactical , and many others are super solid . I prefer full AMBI Controls . LWRCI IC is my all time favorite. CMT and ADM UIC is what I use a lot . FCD , DD and GEISSELE now make Ambi CONTROLS Lowers and I really wanna try them out..
•Stocks / Braces
BCM SOPMOD , B5 , SBA3 , LWRCI Compact , and Magpul PRS Lite are the only ones I use .
•Parts
BCM , Aero , FCD , Colt , Centurion , and GEISSELE are my go too for parts..
•Buffers and Springs
This is very simple for me all I use is Springco Springs and Colt Buffers ..
•Low Profile Gas Blocks
BCM , FCD , DD , SOLGW , Aero , Triarc , Badger Ord , Centurion and SUPERLATIVE ADJ are my go too . BCM , and Centurion is what I use the most ..
•Charging Handles
There is way too many good ones to List. PRI M84 Large Ambi , BCM Ambi , Radian SD Raptor Ambi and GEISSELE Airborne are my favorites . I have been running Strike and Blackhawk Latchless CH and I’m starting to like them for 2Gun Setups .
BA Hanson QPQ Upper with Logic MLOK Rail and Phosphate M16 BCG/BOLT is the number 1 Uppers I recommend.
Aero M4E1 , CMT Ambi , and Centurion are the number 1 lowers I recommend.
That’s my 2 cents lol ..
Nice video bro
And a good quality ambi charging handle.
What do you consider going cheap? PSA makes pretty good stuff decent price.
Very enjoyable and informative video!
Can’t find the rubber inserts on the build list?!…🤔
I see a lot of guys using tge Radian selectors. I haven’t tried one , but if they’re as good as their charging handles, I’m sure they’re the tits. I have the Battle Arms selectors on 2 of my AR’s and I love them. The detents are really nice, and are buttery smooth but positive when operated. I also can’t recommend Battle Arms takedown/pivot pins enough. The front one includes a magnet that holds the detent and spring in place while you install the pin. Also the pins protrude slightly on the left side for easy actuation. They’re pretty expensive, but its worth it to avoid sending small parts across the room and losing them imo. Those and a good charging handle are the only Gucci parts I indulge myself with lol.
How dare you make fun of my Stag?! 🥹🥹🥹
Looks like the people in the comments triggered you again. Lol! You ShillTube gun guys are hypocrites.
Great video tons of valuable info, thanks. Bought my first and so far only AR this year, a PWS M116 MODII, absolutely love it. You can definitely notice the quality when comparing it to some other examples.
Spend the money on a quality bcg and barrel.
I looked at your build list and can’t find any info on that red shim you mentioned for reducing wobble between the uppers and lowers. Can you tell me who makes them and where I might find them? Thanks.
I buy just my first ar15. Radian model 1 14,5".
Barrel, bolt and fitment of the bolt in the upper is the heart of it all but I’m a lefty so I like alot of stupid upgrades
How does one shoot 20 squib loads?
When it comes to a softer shooting rifle. Is it better to go heavier buffer with an adjustable gas block or lighter buffer with an adjustable gas block? Thanks
Good advice Mike!
When I was looking for a new AR rifle afew years ago, I had a checklist with most of the characteristics you mentioned. The POF-USA P415 Edge is what I finally chose and have been very satisfied (in fact bought an Edge pistol later).
I have an Aero Precision and I notice a slight amount of slop between the upper and lower. I know they have that Teflon tension screw. Would you recommend using that or one of those rubber pieces you mention. I have tightened it down somewhat, so I can easily take the rifle down for cleaning, but I’m curious if that is causing tilt in the upper and causing the BCG to not cycle straight back and forth. I started noticing some wear on my buffer recently and have seen that can be a cause. There doesn’t seem to be any burrs on the BCG. Great video as always.